Damien Laureau is a new name in Savennieres, taking over in 1999 from his uncle. As with all Savennieres, this is dry, but the wood aging rounds out the fruit to give a superrich wine. Flavors of mango and pear jam go with the smooth vanilla of the wood. It feels sweet, but tastes dry. The acidity keeps the alcohol at bay.——R.V.(10/1/2007)—— 90