Coppo's 1997 Chardonnay Monteriolo is a medium-bodied, well-made, citrusy wine with fresh, lively fruit, crisp acidity, and subtle wood in the background. Serve it with delicately flavored fish and poultry dishes. A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620

The deep-yellow color suggests plenty of charred oak, and sure enough there’s plenty of it, with butterscotch and vanilla aromas wafting over apple and spice. Flavors are oaky, and the finish is oaky-sweet. Too oaky for many tasters.——W.E.(9/1/2000)—— 84