The current vintage on the market is the 2007 Cotes du Rhone, a dark ruby/purple wine dominated by Grenache, with gobs of fruit, medium body, and loads of purity and density. The 2009 version of this, which has not yet been bottled, is not as exuberant and fruity, and shows slightly more tannin. Anyone who has visited the Cote Rotie recently probably couldn't help but notice the extraordinary new winemaking facility of Vidal-Fleury, situated at the foot of some of the finest Cote Rotie vineyards on the Cote Blonde. Guigal, who has owned Vidal-Fleury for 26 years, seems to have finally gotten this firm where the quality of the wines is first and foremost. Of course, the Maison Vidal-Fleury is one of the oldest in the entire Rhone Valley, with its history dating back to 1781. It was first located at the entrance to the little one-horse village of Ampuis, and the historic building is still there. Most of the wines are negociant blends, including the southern Rhone wines. With their new facility and a complete make-over of the winemaking team, quality has jumped significantly, and this is now clearly a negociant to keep an eye on for both quality and value. Much of this is to the credit of father and son Marcel and Philippe Guigal as well as the new Director General of Maison Vidal-Fleury, Guy Sarton de Jonchay.Importer: William Deutsch and Sons, White Plains, NY; tel. (914) 251-WINE

Now owned by Guigal, this bottling should be fairly easy to find in the United States, with 35,000 cases imported. Its dense, youthful purple color presages intense aromas of jammy black and red berry fruit, while gamy notes, black olives and dried herbs add complexity. The blend of 65% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 10% Mourvedre and 5% Carignan is long and smooth on the finish, with supple tannins and just the right grip.——W.E.(10/15/2010)—— 89