The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva shows off notable concentration in its rich, mineral-infused dark fruit. The tannins are quite firm, but the wine has more than enough layers and depth in its fruit to provide balance. The finish builds to a powerful crescendo of licorice, mocha, menthol and new leather. Because of its generous fruit this should be one of the more accessible 2004 Riservas, but the flavors are still quite primary, so readers looking for a more complete drinking experience will want to cellar this for another few years. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2024.Pinino is a small estate located in the Montosoli district with vineyards in Montosoli itself and in Canchi, which lies to the north-east of the town of Montalcino. Over the last few years the wines have been quite promising.Importer: USA Wine Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 941-7133