The 2012 Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru Les Gaudichots has an elegant, composed bouquet, with light oyster-shell scents filtering through the veil of bright red berries. The palate offers a ripe, tense entry with good weight, although it is broodier than the bouquet intimates. There is a fine backbone here, evincing the quality of this rarely seen premier cru, finishing with a sprinkle of pepper on the aftertaste. Drink 2016-2026. Located in the heart of Vosne, adjacent to the original Domaine de la Romanee-Conti, lies Domaine Regis Forey. Regis’ great-grandfather by the same name founded the domaine in 1840 and the current Regis at the helm took over the 4.5 hectares of vineyard in 1987. In my experience, the wines have been traditionally made, but generally well-crafted. He also is one of the handful of producers who make a Les Gaudichots from a parcel of vines planted in 1930. These samples had been in bottle for one month. (Readers should note that a retrospective of Forey’s wines is in the pipeline.) Importer: Neal Rosenthal, New York, NY; www.madrose.com