Kruger-Rumpf’s 2008 Munsterer Pittersberg Riesling Grosses Gewachs plays variations on the same citrus, pit fruit, and stone themes that characterized their less-expensive dry Pittersberg bottling. The difference at present is largely in this wine’s greater volume, more intense concentration, and marginally riper suggestions of melon and peach. Certain, though, this is a more imposing than it is a winsome wine, and I’d want to revisit this in 2010 or 2011 before laying odds on longer-term evolution. Nearly all of the dry 2008 Kruger-Rumpf Rieslings, incidentally – including their trio of Grosse Gewachse – are only in the 4-5 gram residual sugar range. The Rumpfs seem in 2008 to have had to struggle less to avoid the greenness that was observed in certain of their 2007s. “There was just nothing you could do this year,” comments Georg Rumpf, “except let the fruit hang a long time on the vine.”Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300