This modern-style wine could be designated as Toro, but it comes from a village that predates the Toro D.O. so it keeps the “Vino de la Tierra” moniker. That said, it’s a first-ever Tempranillo made by the New Zealand enologist Amy Hopkinson, and like many new-wave Spanish bruisers five times pricier it pours on the smoky aromas in front of a textured, extracted palate. In terms of sheer flavor per dollar, you’ll be hard pressed to do better. Imported by Jorge Ordonez/Fine Estates from Spain. ——M.S.(11/15/2005)—— 90