Readers looking for deeply pigmented, dark purple-colored wines will be disappointed by the light, evolved colors from this bodega, but there is considerable complexity, elegance, and flavor authority to these wines. The 1995 Alberdi is a light ruby-colored wine with sweet berry/strawberry notes infused with plenty of toasty American oak. Medium-bodied, with a lush, supple texture, this generously-endowed, complex, mature Rioja should be drunk over the next 3-4 years. A Christopher Cannan Selection, imported by Europvin USA, Watertown, MA; tel. (617) 924-7620