Tasting the 2005 Ilatraia next to Il Blu provides a fascinating contrast between the wines of Maremma, in the case of the former, and Chianti Classico in the case of the latter. The Ilatria shows the greater volume and depth that makes the wines from Maremma so appealing. This French oak-aged blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Sangiovese and 10% Petit Verdot is sweet and generous on the palate, where dark fruit, leather, spices, espresso and toasted oak come together in a very harmonious wine with well-integrated tannins and lovely balance. This doesn’t look to be a wine destined for a long life, so it is best enjoyed over the next few years. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2015. Importer: William Grant and Sons, USA, New York, NY; tel. (212) 246-1760