The estate’s 2006 Ilatraia is an unqualified success in this vintage. Super-ripe dark cherries are intermingled with spices, minerals and French oak in this generous, expansive wine from Tuscany’s Maremma. There is tons of length here to go along with the wine’s sumptuous, generous personality. This is probably not a long-term ager, but it should drink beautifully over the mid-term. Ilatraia is 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Sangiovese and 10% Petit Verdot. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2021. This is another highly successful line-up from Brancaia. The high-end 2006 reds are particularly of note. As we went to press, Brancaia announced that effective July 1, 2009 the estate’s new importer will be The Hess Collection, Napa , CA; tel. (707) 255-1144