Rich, creamy, and dense is the 1998 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard. A light gold color is followed by big, thick, smoky, roasted hazelnut, and honeyed citrus aromas with a touch of cloves as well as toasty French oak in the background. A thick, textured, fat effort, it is best consumed over the next 3 years. Phone (707) 833-5620; Fax (707) 933-5620

This big, brawny Chardonnay’s potent nose of smoke, hay, orange, banana and pungent lees is an attention-grabber. Baked apple, buttered popcorn, and vanilla flavors come on strong along with an edge of spicy oak that carries through the finish. The panel rendered a split decision on this wine from veteran winemaker David Ramey. It showed harmony, length and finesse to some, but appeared edgy, a bit disjointed and obvious to others.——W.E.(7/1/2001)—— 89