The 2004 Chardonnay Hudson Vineyard seems to be on a faster evolutionary track than the other wines. Light gold in color with notes of marmalade, smoky hazelnuts, and tropical fruit, and a lusty, rich, full-bodied palate that offers delicious drinking now, it should age well for several more years. Tel. (707) 433-0870; fax (707) 433-0871

Spectacularly ripe, showing an explosion of near-perfect fruit and smoky oak, balanced by crisply elegant acidity. Among the top ranks of Carneros Chards, the wine comes from manicured, low-yielding vines that, in this warm vintage, offer pineapple custard, lemon meringue, kiwi, creme brulee and vanilla spice flavors. There’s something keenly firm and stony in the finish. ——S.H.(5/1/2007)—— 94