The 2006 Dolcetto di Dogliani exhibits a dark, sumptuous expression of dark fruit on a dense, muscular frame. Although the 2006 doesn’t have the aromatic finesse of the 2007 it does possess gorgeous richness in a super-ripe style. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2011. At the risk of sounding like a broken record, it is hard to think of another estate that has made such huge strides in quality over the last few years as Einaudi. This beautiful property is located in Dogliani, so it can’t be too surprising that the Dolcettos are particularly strong. Readers should note that the new Dogliani DOCG is now used for wines that meet certain technical and aging requirements, but the grape used is still Dolcetto.Importer: Empson, USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900

Impressive complexity on the nose from layers of red fruit and barnyard as well as some dusty notes. Cherry and raspberry fruit vie with stringy tannins in the mouth. Unlike many Dolcettos, this one will benefit from a few years bottle age.——W.E.(2/1/2010)—— 87