Bargain seekers should check out Vieux-Telegraphe's vin de pays called Le Pigeoulet. The 1996 may not be as lush as the 1995, but it offers a dark ruby color, medium body, and plenty of straightforward, ripe, red and black fruits presented in an uncomplicated, drinkable style. It should be consumed over the next several years.Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 524-1524