The 2004 Barolo Riserva Triumviratum is completely dominated by French oak, which flattens the fruit and essentially robs the wine of its aromatic nuance. This is fairly pedestrian showing, which is a shame given the quality of Chiarlo’s vineyards. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019. Michele Chiarlo is building a luxury hotel right in the middle of Cerequio. I haven’t seen the interiors yet, but I passed by the hotel several times on my way in and out of the vineyard in late August. The location is utterly breathtaking. Importer: Kobrand Corp., Purchase, NY; tel. (914) 253-7756

An unabashedly modern interpretation, with loads of new oak covering the black cherry and black currant flavors. Poised and flashy, with plenty of wood tannins added to the ample grape tannins, leaving a dry impression on the finish, with a very long aftertaste. Best from 2014 through 2027.??–BS??Region: Italy / Piedmont / Barolo Select to Add