The style of Chardonnay at Beringer seems to have backed off the overt oakiness that was favored for so many years. The new breed of Chardonnay from Beringer is much crisper, with restrained oak and more citrus than butter. For example, the 2012 Chardonnay Napa is fermented in both stainless steel and barrel, has good, lofty alcohol at 14.5%, but shows plenty of lemon zest, honeyed grapefruit, tangerine and white currants. It is crisp, elegant, medium-bodied and best drunk over the next several years.