This is a big, gutsy Pinot Noir, the kind purists object to as being Rhone-like. But that’s what MacRostie’s vineyard gives them, and the wine is brilliant in its power and California deliciousness. With thick tannins but a silky texture, it offers waves of raspberries, cherries, currants, pomegranates, baker’s chocolate and cola. Should develop well over the next six years. ——S.H.(12/15/2008)—— 93