This is always a tight, dry, tannic Pinot Noir due to its cool, low-yielding vineyard. The ’06 is a very fine example. It’s astringent and closed, but with a luscious heart of black cherries, red currants and Dr. Pepper cola. With decanting, it’s fine now with something rich, like wild mushroom risotto, and should develop through 2012. ——S.H.(8/1/2009)—— 93