I loved Northstar’s 2003 Merlot Walla Walla Valley (2,500 cases). Containing 12% Cabernet Sauvignon and 4% Cabernet Franc, this is a medium to full-bodied effort with delightful black cherry, spice, and sage aromas. A sappy, concentrated, seamless wine, it is velvety-textured, intensely flavorful, and lush. Layered with black cherries, blackberries, spices, and raspberries, this is a broad, engaging offering to be drunk over the next 8-9 years. Tel. (866) 486-7828; www.northstarmerlot.com

Very light, showing strawberry and raspberry fruit, but with little weight or extract. The oak is managed a bit better here than with the Columbia Valley wine, so it feels less imbalanced. But the fruit is less substantial, so it’s pretty much a wash between the two bottlings. ——P.G.(11/15/2006)—— 87