A dizzying and seductive bouquet incorporating licorice, spice cake, cherry preserves, and humus announces the arrival of a 2005 Latricieres-Chambertin that takes the smooth, silken-creamy texture of so many of these Leroy 2005s to a new level. Interestingly, this is a bit less deep in color than the rest of today’s grand cru company, and is visibly unfiltered. Explosively intense yet clear as a bell in its finish of licorice and cherry, and with ferocious animal intensity and a veritable smelting of ore-like minerals (could these be Latriciere’s notorious iron asserting itself?), this marks the point at which true geeks will get out their stopwatches and start timing. It comes off as almost spare in the context of Leroy other 2005s, and it won’t be everyone’s cup of Pinot, but I would dearly love to revisit it in 8-10 years. Importer: Martine’s Wines. Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400