Pretty much as gorgeous as California bubbly gets. It’s dry and yeasty and rich in citrus, peach and apple flavors, with an enormously fine structure. Feels smooth as silk, clean as a whistle, with a delicate but complex mousse. Young and vibrant, with mouthwatering acidity, this Champagne-like brut should develop bottle complexity through 2013, at least.——S.H.(12/31/2008)—— 95