Compared to the winery’s ’99 Reserve, with which it was co-released, this bubbly is slightly sweeter, softer and smoother. It’s a fancy wine, drinkable now with crab cakes or smoked salmon or on its own, of course. Chardonnay-based, the wine possesses a light elegance and very great finesse. But it should age well over the next ten years.——S.H.(12/31/2005)—— 93