Domaine Jerome Chezeaux Bourgogne Rouge, Burgundy, France

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The 2010 Bourgogne is a gorgeous wine laced with dark cherries, tar, menthol, smoke and tobacco. This is a decidedly big style of Bourgogne that clearly reflects the low yields of the vintage. There is more than enough structure underpinning the fruit. Warm spiced notes wrap around the finish. The Bourgogne is made mostly from vines in Premeaux plus some holdings in Vosne. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2022. Jerome Chezeaux took over his family’s estate in 1994. The winery was originally founded in 1938, but only began bottling in the late 1960s. The 2010 harvest started on September 25 and lasted six days. The wines saw about 21 days of cuvaison (including 4-5 days cold soak) and were then aged in oak, with a fairly low amount of new wood, as is typical here. Yields were down 40% on average. The 2010s are on average excellent. The entry-level wines are terrific, both on absolute and relative terms. A number of the top 1er Crus and the Clos de Vougeot struck me as a bit closed, which is not surprising given the personality of the year. I will not be surprised if some of the top 2010s are even more impressive from bottle.Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990