This is a wine that’s been tremendously variable over the years, but with the ’07, Craig has produced his best bottling since the late 1990s. Succeeds not only with dramatically ripe blackberry, currant, chocolate and sweet, smoky cedar flavors, but also with a structure of finely ground tannins and a long, dry, spicy finish. Drink now and for the next few years. ——S.H.(7/1/2010)—— 92