The Higueruela is a fruit-driven effort that sees no oak. Old vines, low yields, and impeccable winemaking have resulted in a dense ruby/purple-colored wine with medium to full body as well as a delicious kirsch, blackberry, currant, licorice, and spice-scented bouquet. This is a beautiful example from a little-known Spanish appellation. Consume them over the next 2-3 years as it is not meant to improve in the bottle. Importer: Aurelio Cabestrero, Grapes of Spain, Lorton, VA; tel. (703) 249-8028

Dry leather, leaves, burnt spice and pepper lead it off, followed by tart flavors of plum and berry. Never seems to find a higher level of quality as it falls off on the palate, finishing with rhubarb and cranberry. ——M.S.(9/1/2006)—— 83