The light, crisp, Italian-styled 2005 Pinot Grigio possesses zingy acidity, attractive grapefruit and orange zest characteristics, along with a hint of green apple skins. Enjoy it over the next year. Previously recommended: 2002 Venge Family Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (97), 2003 Venge Family Reserve Merlot (90).Saddleback Cellars tel. (707) 944-1305; fax (707) 944-1325; Venge Winery tel. (707) 967-1008

One of the rare PGs that comes from this prestigious appellation, which is patently too warm for the variety. The wine is dull and soft, with earthy flavors, and all that oak doesn’t help. ——S.H.(12/31/2006)—— 82