The dark ruby-colored 2004 Pinot Noir “Triple Black Slopes” has a bouquet of pain grille, blackberry and blueberry. It is slightly compact on the palate and firm so I would opt for drinking it near-term while the fruit holds. Over the past 15 years Willakenzie Estate (named for the soil type on which the winery sits) has been a consistently excellent source for Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, and particularly, Pinot Noir. The quality has been solid and the prices have been fair. Tel. (503) 662-3280; www.willakenzie.com. Also tasted: 2006 Pinot Gris (88), 2006 Pinot Blanc (89)