The 2004 Riesling Schlossberg – weighing in at a shockingly low 12.6% alcohol – smells of apple blossom and clover in a Mosel-like manner, offers a juicy peach, melon, lemon and nut oil impression on the palate, and is polished and refreshing in its finish in a manner that completely belies the presence of botrytis. While this is not hugely concentrated, it is delicious and well-balanced today, and I hope the Blancks will have released it by the time you read this report. (I withhold judgment for now on the somewhat austere 2005 Schlossberg, which last spring was still in tank.) Frederic and Philippe Blanck are among the most determined late-releasers, so that even from 2004 the top wines are only now appearing in the market, and I tasted nowhere near all of this domaine’s abundant cuvees from 2005 and 2004. Frederic Blanck is eloquent in his expressions of traditionalism and viticultural idealism. I applaud the number of classically dry yet elegant and even delicate Rieslings he renders. (He says he cannot sell a truly dry-tasting Pinot Gris in France nowadays). But I must say I did not always find a vinous concentration concomitant with his idealism, particularly when it came to the numerous (and certainly ready-to-drink) 2002s that are still for sale.Imported by: Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300 and by The Stacole Company, Boca Raton, FL; tel. (561) 998 0029.
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