I'm not sure the 2001 Costamolino (100% tank-fermented and aged Vermentino) is not outstanding. A glorious perfume of flowers, white fruits, flint, and almond paste is followed by a medium-bodied offering with lovely richness, an exotic personality, and a long, pure, fresh finish that lasts for nearly 30 seconds. This is a remarkably sophisticated, surprisingly complex, fruit-driven white with a compelling personality. Drink it over the next year. A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620