The 2004 Piesporter Goldtropfchen Riesling Spatlese*** trocken tasted from tank, offered – in addition to site-typical grapefruit and black currant aromas – a fascinating combination of piquant herbal notes and brothy minerality. Each of the Kesselstatt dry Spatlesen, incidentally, has three prominent stars on the label after the vineyard name, whereas the words “Spatlese trocken” are only visible in tiny print on the reverse side. For that reason, I have indicated the stars as part of the name, but there is in each instance only one dry Spatlese per site. Importer: P. J. Valckenberg International, Tulsa, OK; tel. (918) 622-0424.