From just below Fremiets, along the Pommard line and vines 60-70 years of age, comes a 2005 Volnay Les Brouillards sporting high-toned aromas of cherry, nutmeg, vanilla and ginger, a palate impression so bright it would wake you up in the middle of the night, and deep stony, chalky underlying minerality. For all that, there is an incipient sense of creamy texture here as well. The wine’s long finish of tartly fresh red fruits, subtly sweet and pungent spice, and chalk blazes a formidable trail across the palate. “Why is it that these wines from along the Pommard line taste more Volnay-like than many another Volany?” asks Charlot, without, however, volunteering an answer. Jean-Pierre Charlot promotes a brisk, athletically lean and often downright rapier style on which opinions are bound to diverge. If it sets you salivating to imagine the brightness, transparency and cut of Riesling in the medium of Pinot Noir – characteristics I would ordinarily consider more appropriate to Volnay than Pommard – then do not miss this address! The wines had very recently been assembled (and in three instances bottled) when I tasted. Also recommended: 2005 Bourgogne ($26.00;84), 2005 Pommard ($50.00;86), Voillot’s 2005 Beaune Coucherias ($60.00;85-87+?), 2005 Pommard Clos Micot ($85.00;85-86). Importer: Vintage 59, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 966 9218

From just below Fremiets, along the Pommard line and vines 60-70 years of age, comes a 2005 Volnay Les Brouillards sporting high-toned aromas of cherry, nutmeg, vanilla and ginger, a palate impression so bright it would wake you up in the middle of the night, and deep stony, chalky underlying minerality. For all that, there is an incipient sense of creamy texture here as well. The wine’s long finish of tartly fresh red fruits, subtly sweet and pungent spice, and chalk blazes a formidable trail across the palate. “Why is it that these wines from along the Pommard line taste more Volnay-like than many another Volany?” asks Charlot, without, however, volunteering an answer. Jean-Pierre Charlot promotes a brisk, athletically lean and often downright rapier style on which opinions are bound to diverge. If it sets you salivating to imagine the brightness, transparency and cut of Riesling in the medium of Pinot Noir – characteristics I would ordinarily consider more appropriate to Volnay than Pommard – then do not miss this address! The wines had very recently been assembled (and in three instances bottled) when I tasted.Also recommended: 2005 Bourgogne ($26.00;84), 2005 Pommard ($50.00;86), Voillot’s 2005 Beaune Coucherias ($60.00;85-87+?), 2005 Pommard Clos Micot ($85.00;85-86).Importer: Vintage 59, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 966 9218