An outstanding wine, particularly impressive given the floods than struck the region immediately prior to harvest, the 2000 Volnay-Brouillards is ruby-colored and explodes from the glass with loads of cherries. Exhibiting outstanding depth, this concentrated, pure, intense wine is jam-packed with red cherries, blackberries, and spice, whose flavors linger in its admirably long finish. Anticipated maturity: 2004-2009. Jean-Pierre Charlot has instituted a number of changes at Domaine Joseph Voillot in recent years, all for the best. He's lowered yields by pruning, harvests later to achieve better ripeness, installs sorting tables at the end of each row of vines to reject any unripe or moldy clusters, and has abandoned fining as well as filtration. It is immensely gratifying to see that Charlot, formerly an oenology teacher at Beaune's Lycee Viticole, is open to new ideas. Domaine Joseph Voillot's wines have never been better, readers should expect to see great things in the future from this old estate. Importer: Vintage '59, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 966-9218