The 1994 Moulin a Vent Rochegres (only 100 cases for the United States) was aged in new Francois Freres oak barrels for six months before being bottled unfiltered. The wine's deep ruby color and intense perfume of black fruits are followed by a full-bodied, concentrated wine with no evidence of new oak aging - which says something about the wine's concentration of ripe fruit. Long, with layers of blueberry/raspberry fruit, and plenty of muscle and extract, this wine is delicious now and promises to age for at least a decade. This is an impressive effort.Proprietor Pierre Chermette is one of the few Beaujolais producers to (1) ferment with indigenous vineyard yeasts, (2) refuse to chaptalize (add sugar to the fermenting musk), (3) abstain from using sulphur dioxide, and (4) bottle his wines without fining or filtration. In many respects they are reference points for the old style Beaujolais that has largely disappeared.Imported by Weygandt-Metzler, Box 56, Unionville, PA 19375. The telephone number is (610) 486-0800; fax (610) 932-0279. Questions regarding availability in specific states and cities should be directed to Peter Weygandt.
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