Once again Sineann has produced a marvelous, delicate and fascinating Pinot Gris. Less audaciously fruity than in the past, it more than makes up for it with details of dust and pollen and sweet straw that might almost come from a Loire Valley Savennieres. Tucked away in the light herbal scents are streaks of melon, apple and pear.——P.G.(10/1/2009)—— 90