There is no question that Pichler’s 2004 Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Hochrain is formidable. It smells of sweet green herbal distillate, lime and wet stones. Rich, yet firm in feel, this full-bodied Gruner Veltliner generates a forceful, if faintly warm finish combining herbal essences, piquant toasted nuts, citrus zest, and wet stone. Pichler grants me that his generic Smaragd is more open than his two single-vineyard offerings, and with the Hochrain I can more easily imagine it standing out after another nine months or year in the bottle. Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700

Intense, structured and minerally, with a long vein of grapefruit, slate and smoke flavors. Powerful and balanced, with a long, long finish of pepper and spice, with hints of tropical flavors. Impressive for its lush creamy elements as well. Drink now through 2015. 200 cases made.??–KM??Region: Austria / Nieder?sterreich / Wachau Select to Add