The 2004 Barolo Riserva Voghera Brea comes across as quite classic. Red fruits, iron, dried rose, smoke, licorice and tobacco are just some of the nuances that can be found in this wonderful, complex Barolo. Stylistically, the Riserva shows slightly oxidative (but not at all unpleasant) aromas and flavors that recall a more traditional style of Barolo than is typically found at Azelia. Still, I loved the Riserva for its superb balance, expansive fruit and compelling, powerful personality. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2029. Proprietor Luigi Scavino doesn’t get anywhere near the attention he deserves, but make no mistake about it, his top Barolos play in the same league with Piedmont’s elite bottlings. The Barolos see malolactic fermentation and aging in French oak barriques, although the Margheria is aged in medium-size French oak barrels. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; (415) 492-9411, Giuliana Imports, Boulder CO; (303) 547-6343, Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville IL; (630) 422-1119