The 2017 Volnay 1er Cru Les Caillerets unfurls in the glass with a classy bouquet of crunchy cassis, red berries, dried flowers and dark chocolate that's still comparatively primary, with little hint of the tertiary complexity to come. On the palate, the wine is medium-bodied, chalky and tensile with a firm core of ripe fruit and juicy balancing acids. As is invariably the case, this Caillerets will demand a decade or more of bottle age before it truly shows its hand. After the 2017 vintage, half of the parcel was ripped up for replanting, so quantities will be more than usually limited in the years to come.