This is a tremendous young wine, enormous in fruity stuffing. It’s fairly tannic, but the Grenache-like cherry, cassis, plum and fudgy chocolate flavors are so powerful, so evocative, nothing could mask them. Grilled steak will tame it, but this is a good cellar candidate to open between 2008 and 2015. You can also decant for a few hours. ——S.H.(12/15/2006)—— 94