An extremely intense, amazing bargain, the 2005 Merlot Pesano (100% Merlot aged 5-6 months in barrel) exhibits a deep ruby/purple hue, and fleshy, concentrated, black cherry, cassis, smoke, herb, and mocha aromas and flavors. This medium-bodied, concentrated, unbelievably low-priced red is too good to be true. It should be drunk within 2-3 years of release. Kudos to Riccardo and Renzo Cotarella for continuing to deliver remarkable wines at these prices. A Leonardo LoCascio Selection, Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620; fax (201) 445-9868.

The overall intensity and concentration is nothing less than stratospheric and its aromatic profile reaches deep into the darkest and plushest of enological possibilities: Fudge, cinnamon, ginger, blackberry, espresso and vanilla come at you one thick layer after another.——M.L.(4/1/2007)—— 90