The 2009 Coda di Volpe reveals layers of subtle, mineral-infused fruit in a medium-bodied style that nevertheless capture the generosity of the vintage. Subtle notes of ash and earthiness inform the long finish. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2012. These new releases from Terredora are among the most impressive I tasted. From top to bottom these are serious wines readers will not want to miss. The 2009 whites, all of which are aged in steel, reflect the rich, generous style of the vintage, while the 2004 Taurasis are simply off the charts. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

Terredora offers a very successful expression of the rare Coda di Volpe grape that puts emphasis on body and texture, and not only on aromatics. The bouquet is redolent of stone fruit and melon, but the wine also feels creamy and smooth on the close.——M.L.(6/1/2011)—— 86