Dei fashions tasty wines that need little aging to showcase their charms. For example, the 1995 Rosso di Montepulciano exhibits a deep ruby/purple color, a soft, generously-endowed personality, with gobs of ripe plummy, cherry fruit with a touch of chocolate. Although it has not yet begun to display all its nuances, it is a soft, round, generous wine for drinking over the next 2-4 years. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700, and Estate Wines, Ltd., San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 492-9411