Deiss’s 2007 Muscat d’Alsace Bergheim displays a classic nose of apricot, persimmon, sage, mint, basil, and panoply of citrus oils. As usual in his rendition, this has an impressive sense of stuffing and glossy, glycerin-rich texture, yet at the same time lift, brightness, and above all primary juiciness that makes for lip-smacking refreshment and a sappily persistent yet cleansing finish, in which salinity and subtle herbal pungency (without approaching bitterness) add invigoration. Part of Deiss’s secret with Muscat is the delayed reunion of a riper, portion of the harvest with the main body, in order to keep the fermentation going into the new year, since Deiss maintains that the juiceless, simple persona that Muscat can too easily assume is traceable to the tendency – assuming one has harvested at modest potential alcohol to retain freshness – for it to gallop through fermentation. This for all intents and purposes dry wine will remain delightful for at least 6-8 years – not that one ought to neglect it young. Jean-Michel Deiss has been officially tasked with assisting his fellow Alsace growers in the drafting of new regional regulations and labeling conventions, in keeping with both France’s proposed move to a higher-order French appellation “d’Origine Protegee” and with the potential regional autonomy provided for (if inchoately) by recent EU legislation. As readers can imagine, Deiss’s vision involves a drastically diminished scope and roll for varietal bottling, analogous to his conception of Alsace crus as being best expressed by a blending of multiple cepages. (For more on the evolution of Deiss’s approach, consult my report in issue 175). Two things are indubitable: Alsace could use fresh approaches to labeling and marketing; and any Deiss proposal will have been thought-through all the way down to its historical and metaphysical levels. Deiss’s own line and labeling have been further simplified: beginning with 2006 his lower tier of wines is being bottled without village designations, leaving him more flexibility in blending. Although Deiss did not bottle a full compliment of his crus from the rot-challenged 2006 vintage, he said he was loath to pull back by settling his musts more aggressively of bottling earlier, “because the lees are the megaphone for the terroir.” Fair enough in principle, but the results were to say the least decidedly mixed, whereas Deiss’s 2007s represent a resounding success. (Deiss did not show me his lower-tier 2006s and I did not have chance to ferret any of them out from the marketplace.)Importer: Vintus, Pleasantville, NY; tel. (914) 769-3000

Mid-gold color. Savory, more earthy vegetal aromas and a hint of acetone. Fairly light-bodied, very tangy with dominant candied citrus and tropical fruit flavors. Funky, earthy notes follow through on the palate. Decent flavor concentration but shortish, slightly sweet finish. ——W.E.(12/22/2011)—— 85