Ironically, after a 2006 rendition which the Barthelmes (and I – who have been critical of the project) think was the most successful of their long-running experiments with barriques, they decided to revert to stainless steel vinification for their 2007 Pinot Gris Furstentum, and say they intend to render it this way in the future. Orange zest, litchi, brown spices, and smoked meat on the nose and palate could be Gewurztraminer. Opulent, oily, and enveloping, yet refreshing, and with well-integrated sweetness, this suffers only from a touch of alcoholic heat, which might well dissipate in the 5-7 years I would be tempted to give it in the cellar and it should hold up well for twice that long. To say that Maurice and Jacky Barthelme are bullish on their 2007s would be an understatement, as they seem to think that this is their best collection going all the way back to the wonderful 1988s with which they debuted in the U.S. (and a number of which I am still enjoying). Since they have been among those Alsace vintners most concerned with restraining sugar accretion while promoting ripe flavors, it’s understandable that they view 2007 as having been especially welcome when compared with other very recent vintages. “In September there was just enough rain; in October no rain; November was wonderful,” comments Jacky Barthelme, “so, we had time to harvest and to select.” Barthelmes were also among those growers who sold off a portion of their 2006 crop in bulk and declassified portions into generic bottlings, but the resulting bottlings are among the finest of that vintage, for which the brothers in part – unsurprisingly – credit biodynamic preparations and fruit that could be picked ripe early. My laudatory reviews of the (for this estate typically) outstanding value Mann Auxerrois Vieilles Vignes and Pinot Blanc bottlings of vintage 2007 can be found in issue 178.Importer: Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800
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