Loosen’s generic 2008 Riesling Kabinett Blue Slate (labeled only in English, since there is no market for it inside Germany) smells of mint, chervil, lime, narcissus, and ripe honeydew melon, which follow on a luscious, surprisingly softly-textured, yet refreshing palate. At only 8.5% alcohol, this is certainly delicate, yet its sweetness is impeccably-balanced. It reveals the rather Sauvignon-like aspects of less ripe 2008 Rieslings, and will offer fine value over the next 4-6 years. Ernst Loosen insists he aims to observe an upper limit of 12.5% alcohol for his trocken bottlings, a level that one might have expected was easily achievable in 2008; but in fact, a portion of this vintage’s collection comes close to transgressing it. When it comes to residually sweet Kabinett – a genre in which Loosen has long excelled – his frequently-voiced concerns that “the real thing” was becoming almost impossible (or at least, impossibly expensive) to achieve nowadays certainly do not apply to the 2008 vintage, when his collection of Kabinetts is not only superb, but also lively and feather-light. Indeed, the whole 2008 Loosen Oeuvre – while consisting of fewer wines than usual, with its nobly sweet selections even more (and more spectacularly) focused than usual on Pralat – is superb. What’s more, even cellarmaster Bernard Schug voiced his amazement at just how little sweetness most of the residually sweet wines display.Importer: Loosen Brothers, Portland, OR tel. (510) 864-7255

A fresh, crisp kabinett, sporting notes of apple and grapefruit, with a hint of orange. This is juicy and balanced, featuring a mineral element that enters on the mouthwatering finish. Drink now through 2020. 3,000 cases made.??–BS??Region: Germany / Mosel Select to Add

Quite ripe and precise stone fruit aromas with interesting hints of minerality. Refreshingly crisp with balanced sweetness. Ample youthful, juicy fruits dance across the palate. Moderate intensity of flavor, zesty texture and a moderately long finish. ——W.E.(3/1/2011)—— 89