Loosen and Schug bottled no 2006 Spatlese from this site, but their 2006 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese pits creamy apple and vanilla typical of the site against an attractively invigorating apple skin tartness, fresh lemony acidity, and wet stone. Strangely, though, this really blurs in the back end, lacking the purity or length to be completely convincing. It might be a phase in the wine’s evolution. (I only tasted this once, early on.) Ernst Loosen, Bernard Schug, and their team finished their harvest on October 6, before many growers had even begun. “Thank goodness we were able to bring 15 people up from Weingut J. L. Wolf in the Pfalz,” says Loosen about the hectic and heroic day-and-night harvest of 2006. “We’ve never before had 50 people out there in the vineyards.” “Those guys from the Pfalz had just plain had it at the end, I can tell you,” adds Schug, without a trace of humor. But he brightens when assessing the vintage as a whole. “I considered the 2005s the best collection of my career, but at this stage, I don’t think 2006 as a whole is weaker.” During the past three vintages in his collaborative work with Chateau Ste. Michelle in Washington State, Loosen points out, he has moved on to their harvest after that of his own estate in the “cool climate ‘Old World.’” Importer: Loosen Brothers, Portland, OR; tel. (510) 864-7255

Perfumed, with iris and violet aromas and candied berry and lime notes, all matched to a light-bodied frame. Ethereal, but with no shortage of flavor. Balanced, lingering nicely. Drink now through 2025. 400 cases imported.??–BS??Region: Germany / Mosel-Saar-Ruwer Select to Add

Shows ample complexity on the nose, offering up hints of dried apricot and crushed stone to go alongside dominant notes of superripe apple. On the palate, although this lacks the zest and freshness of the very best auslese, it's still a leasing package, combining hints of honeyed richness with ripe pears and spice. Drink over the next 5–10 years.——J.C.(12/15/2008)—— 89