Profound, finely nuanced single vineyard Champagne that weaves disparate elements into a stunning, seamless whole. A full range of caramel, floral, citrus, forest floor, mustard greens and dried cherry aromas and flavors work in great harmony. The mouthfeel displays a positive, brilliant tension: it's full-yet light, bright and zingy-but even, smooth, yet to some tasters, almost gravelly-textured. Lengthy, lime-tinged, the tight, almost austere finish bodes a great, long life ahead for this still-youthful 1988. ——W.E.(12/15/2001)—— 95