The 2007 Barbaresco Rabaja bursts from the glass with layers of tar, smoke, minerals, menthol, pine and Christmas cake that are wrapped around a core of intense black fruit. This is one of the more muscular, brooding wines readers will come across in 2007. The oak is beautifully integrated in this large scaled, sweeping Barbaresco. The Rabaja will be even better in a few years’ time, but I can hardly fault readers who don’t want to delay gratification, as this is a delicious bottle. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2027. Bruno Rocca’s 2007 Barbareschi are among the stars of the vintage. The wines show fabulous finesse and elegance, while capturing the exuberant personality of the year. Importers: Trilussa Wine Company, Greenbrae CA; tel. (415) 499-8466; Indigenous Selections, Fort Lauderdale FL; tel. (954) 530-4021

Bright, with a dense, grainy texture and flavors of black cherry, blackberry and spice. This shows just a hint of mineral, too, as this tightens up on the finish. A fine example, but needs time. Best from 2013 through 2024. 1,166 cases imported.??–BS??Region: Italy / Piedmont / Barbaresco Select to Add

This year’s best expression from the celebrated Rabaja cru, Bruno Rocca presents a beautifully integrated Barbaresco that shows equal parts fruit (prune, plum and cassis) and spice (vanilla, root beer and clove). The wine is smooth, silky and very enduring on the close with excellent structure. Drink after 2015. ——M.L.(12/1/2010)—— 94