A big and powerful white Burgundy is Cordier's Pouilly-Fuisse Vers-Cras. Harvested at slightly over 14% natural potential alcohol, this wine's aromas burst from the glass with super-ripe fruits, flint, and minerals. On the attack, it is hugely powerful, yet continues to build to a muscular crescendo in the mid-palate. It is chewy, medium to full-bodied, and loaded with massive spice and over-ripe white fruit flavors. While immensely appealing through its power and loads of persistent flavors, what is even more impressive is that it remains refined and well-balanced. Anticipated maturity: now-2010. Importer: Peter Weygandt, Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, PA; tel (610) 486-0800.