This small winery specializes in Italian varietals and it does them pretty well. Here is a good impersonation of Chianti, with just enough mint, herb and oak aromatics and extracted plummy fruit to qualify as pure Cal-Ital. A big wine at 14.5%, it’s got a nice black-cherry core and it stands up solidly to garlic-laden foods.——M.S.(9/1/2000)—— 88