An outstanding wine, the fairly priced 2004 Semillon Fries Vineyard Wahluke Slope (500 cases) bursts from the glass with scents of ripe pears, smoke, and tangerines. With aeration (those who decant this beauty will be recompensed), it offers a medium-bodied core of satiny melon, pear, red currant, and tangerine zest flavors. Drink it over the next 3-4 years. Tel. (509) 525-0940; www.lecole.com

Not quite up to the ultraripe heights of recent vintages, this is a somewhat lighter version of this Semillon. Fig and light herb are the dominant flavors, augmented with pretty toasty highlights from the barrel fermentation, and lovely textures from the extended lees contact.——P.G.(8/1/2006)—— 89